Komodo’s Fishy Reefs

Komodo National Park’s underwater environment is one of the most hydrodynamically complex and ecologically vibrant marine ecosystems on Earth. The region sits in the path of the Indonesian Throughflow, where enormous volumes of water moving between the Pacific and Indian oceans are squeezed through narrow straits and around steep islands, submerged pinnacles, and seamounts. Combined with strong tidal exchanges, this creates powerful currents, upwellings, eddies, and localized turbulence. These constantly moving waters deliver plankton and nutrient-rich water to the reefs, fueling abundant coral growth and concentrating an extraordinary diversity and density of marine life. The result is an underwater landscape that is not only thrilling to dive, but remarkably alive—and among the fishiest places I’ve photographed.

Chromis feed close to the reef in the water column above a healthy Komodo coral reef. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

Clouds of chromis and anthias sweep above a densely packed coral garden in Komodo National Park, Indonesia. The extraordinary abundance of both fish and corals captures the energy and richness of Komodo’s reefs. Central Komodo, Indonesia. — Clouds of chromis and anthias sweep above a densely packed coral garden in Komodo National Park, Indonesia. The extraordinary abundance of both fish and corals captures the energy and richness of Komodo’s reefs.

Clouds of anthias swarm above a coral-rich reef in Komodo, filling the water column with color as they feed in the current. Central Komodo, Indonesia. — Clouds of anthias swarm above a coral-rich reef in Komodo, filling the water column with color as they feed in the current.

An Emperor Angelfish cruises above a coral-rich reef in Komodo, surrounded by swarms of anthias and other small fishes in the current. Central Komodo, Indonesia. — An Emperor Angelfish cruises above a coral-rich reef in Komodo, surrounded by swarms of anthias and other small fishes in the current.

Following a few days of diving around Tulamben, I was back aboard Damai for a nine-day trip to Komodo. This was a relocation trip from Bali, so the first two days were spent making our way east, with some so-so diving and one rather chaotic whale shark encounter along the way. August is peak season in the park, and there was no shortage of boats topside or divers underwater. Larger reef fish such as groupers, sweetlips, barracudas, and mantas seemed more reclusive than I remembered, but the cool nutrient-rich water and strong currents still brought out the masses of small schooling fish and complex reef color that Komodo is known for—and that keep me coming back.

Anthias drift in dense numbers above a bright coral outcrop in Komodo, adding motion and color to the fish-rich reef scene. Central Komodo, Indonesia. — Anthias drift in dense numbers above a bright coral outcrop in Komodo, adding motion and color to the fish-rich reef scene.

Anthias and damselfishes crowd the water above a densely packed Komodo reef, where hard corals, sponges, and other reef life compete for space. Central Komodo, Indonesia. — Anthias and damselfishes crowd the water above a densely packed Komodo reef, where hard corals, sponges, and other reef life compete for space.

Scalefin Anthias fill the water column above a Komodo reef, the brightly colored males standing out among the schools of smaller females. Sangeang, Indonesia.

Jacks, a Turtle and a Jellyfish

A large school of Bigeye Trevallies sweeps over a coral-rich reef in Komodo, splitting and reforming as the fish move through the current.

Bigeye Trevallies stream low over the reef in a tightly packed school, one of the striking fish aggregations found on Komodo’s current-swept reefs. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A Bluefin Trevally patrols a vibrant coral reef in Komodo, passing beneath a cloud of small reef fishes gathered above the slope. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A Hawksbill Turtle rises above the reef, framed by corals and the deep blue water of Komodo, Indonesia.

A jellyfish drifts just beneath the surface, its reflection mirrored in the rippling water above. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

One Popular Whale Shark

Saleh Bay in Sumbawa is a popular spot for divers and snorkelers hoping to see whale sharks. Deep inside the bay are floating fishing platforms known as bagans, where fishermen scatter ground-up fish into the water, attracting whale sharks looking for an easy meal. During peak season, especially when only a few sharks are around, the water surrounding them can become incredibly crowded. We had just one whale shark feeding during our transit through the bay, and I had never seen anything quite like it. Despite all the commotion in the water, the shark seemed remarkably unbothered.

Traditional fishing boats crowd the surface above the water, their outriggers and rigging forming a maze of lines against the sky. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark glides just beneath the surface, accompanied by remoras and framed by shafts of sunlight from above. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

Snorkelers gather at the surface as a Whale Shark cruises slowly below, its spotted body surrounded by remoras. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark approaches through a crowd of swimmers at the surface, its enormous mouth open as it moves through the water. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark passes beneath swimmers and boats, silhouetted against the bright surface and streaming sunlight. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark cruises directly beneath a fishing boat, remoras clinging to its body while swimmers watch from the surface. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark moves among swimmers and boats at the surface, creating a dramatic silhouette in the blue water below. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

A Whale Shark crosses beneath the sun, its massive body reduced to a dark silhouette against the brilliant surface. Saleh Bay, Indonesia.

Juvenile Fish

A brightly colored juvenile Lyretail Hawkfish hovers among hydroids and other reef growth on a Komodo reef. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A newly transformed surgeonfish juvenile, still small and relatively plain before developing the stronger coloration and proportions of the adult. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A tiny juvenile Highfin Grouper faces the camera, its bold black-and-white pattern and oversized fins making the youngster look far more conspicuous than the adult. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A newly settled Powder Blue Tang stands out among a group of Dascyllus damselfishes, still carrying the compact proportions of its recent pelagic stage. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A juvenile Black-saddled Toby hovers among crinoids, sponges and black corals on a Komodo reef. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A juvenile Leopard Wrasse pauses above the reef, showing off its intricate orange-and-blue reticulated pattern. Medang, East Lombok, Indonesia.

A young Clark’s Anemonefish peers from the protective tentacles of its host anemone. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A juvenile Areolate Grouper hovers beside the reef, already displaying the distinctive honeycomb pattern that covers the adult. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A tiny Pink Anemonefish hovers among the bulb-tipped tentacles of its host anemone. Medang, East Lombok, Indonesia.

Blackwater

A transitioning Spotfin Lionfish (Pterois antennata) drifts in the open water during a blackwater dive, its outsized fins and transparent body still reflecting its pelagic larval stage. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A transitioning Scalefin Anthias in the open water at night, already developing the orange-red coloration and deeper body of its reef-dwelling juvenile stage. Moyo, Indonesia.

A greenish, transparent transitioning garden eel swims snake-like through the water column, searching for a colony where it can settle into the burrow-dwelling life of an adult. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A settling larval lizardfish carries several parasitic isopods attached along its body, illustrating the heavy parasite loads sometimes encountered during the pelagic larval stage. Most larval lizardfish settle at a relatively large size of about 40–50 mm after a larval duration of roughly 35–50 days. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A large parasitic isopod clings to a severely injured larval lizardfish. The fish was unable to swim normally and appeared unlikely to survive. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A juvenile crinoid drifts through the open water at night, its delicate arms already showing the elaborate feathered structure of the adult. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A young Shortfin Puffer in transition, with juvenile proportions and developing adult pigmentation, photographed during a blackwater dive. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A juvenile mahi reflects off the sea surface, creating a mirrored double image of this fast-growing pelagic fish. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A transitioning ghost pipefish hovers in the water column during a blackwater dive, already showing the bizarre form and ornate appendages of its adult life. At about 6 cm long, it was remarkably large for a still-pelagic individual, suggesting that ghost pipefish can remain in the plankton well into juvenile development. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A juvenile Dogtooth Tuna drifts through the open water during a blackwater dive, already showing the streamlined form of the powerful adult predator. The identification is an educated guess and has not been confirmed. North Komodo, Indonesia.

A Phronima barrel amphipod with her young clustered inside the transparent salp barrel that serves as both nursery and mobile shelter. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A female Phronima amphipod occupies a hollowed-out salp that she has transformed into a mobile nursery and protective home for her developing young. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A tiny Bobtail Squid hovers in the darkness during a blackwater dive, its iridescent, spotted body standing out against the open ocean. Moyo, Indonesia.

A juvenile Bluefin Driftfish displays the enormous, wing-like fins characteristic of its pelagic stage while drifting through the water column at night. Moyo, Indonesia.

A hyperiid amphipod faces the camera during a blackwater dive, its bizarre, almost alien face dominated by a pair of large red compound eyes. Moyo, Indonesia.

A transitioning Tailspot Cardinalfish drifts through the water column during a blackwater dive, its greatly elongated yellow pelvic fins still retained from the larval stage. Moyo, Indonesia.

A Box Crab Couple

Not a fish, but too cool to pass up…

A male Box Crab uses his massive claws to grasp a female. Females mate shortly after molting, while the new shell is still soft. A male may carry a female before she molts to prevent rivals from taking her, and continue guarding her after mating to reduce the chance that she mates again. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

Adult Fish Highlights

A Jewel Damselfish (Stegastes lacrymatus) showing considerably more yellow in the body than the more typical brown coloration. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A Titan Triggerfish foraging across a shallow reef in Komodo.

A crocodilefish rests motionless on the seafloor, relying on its flattened body and mottled pattern to disappear against the reef. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A bright yellow color variant of the Dusky Dottyback, standing out dramatically against the darker reef. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A Twospot Wrasse moves across the reef, its bold dark bars contrasting with the intricate orange-and-blue markings of the head. Medang, East Lombok, Indonesia.

A Firetail Dottyback (Labracinus cyclophthalmus), a giant among dottybacks at up to about 9 inches long. The species was common in some of Komodo’s healthiest shallow hard-coral habitats, where I encountered three distinct color patterns—this specimen being the most striking.

A Firetail Dottyback (Labracinus cyclophthalmus) displaying a predominantly yellow color pattern. This large dottyback showed considerable variation in coloration among individuals in Komodo.

Another Firetail Dottyback (Labracinus cyclophthalmus) color pattern, this individual with a dark body and nearly black tail—quite different from the yellow and red forms seen elsewhere in Komodo.

A Checkerboard Wrasse (black variant) forages among corals and soft coral growth on a shallow reef. Central Komodo, Indonesia.

A juvenile Emperor Angelfish displays the striking blue-and-white concentric pattern of its early life stage. As it grows, this pattern is gradually replaced by the yellow-and-blue horizontal stripes of the adult. The species has also been successfully aquacultured. Sangeang, Indonesia.

A juvenile King Demoiselle hovers above the reef, its yellow-orange body and electric-blue facial markings especially vivid at this early stage. Medang, East Lombok, Indonesia.

A Rust-banded Wrasse (Pseudocoris aurantiofasciata) flies through the water column above a deep reef in Komodo, well away from the bottom. They form groups near outer reef drop-offs down to 35 meters or more.

A striking yellow color variant of a Dwarf Lionfish. The species occurs mainly in brown, with reddish individuals less common and bright yellow specimens particularly rare. Central Komodo, Indonesia.